Thursday, February 7, 2008

Everyone looks away when the needle darts into the vein

Last weekend I was invited along to go see the new "Gothic" exhibit at the Yokohama Museum of Art. Without too many details up front, it seemed like a good chance to learn about the current obsession with the genre from a new perspective. For the unaware, Japan has embraced all varieties of "Gothic" subculture - from freaky to cutesy. So what exactly does "Gothic" mean? Why do I keep surrounding it in quotes? Simply, language is inconveniently subjective and sometimes one can't attempt define a term without opening up a can of worms. Like most words, its meaning has mutated and evolved over time, and when applied to a culture it becomes infinitely more complex, leaving everyone with their own idea of what the word represents.

That said, I won't try to cover the etymology of anything, but instead focus on the exhibit and what it meant to me. I'll also cease capitalizing and quoting because it's annoying as hell.

The original description of the exhibit promised a look into the contemporary gothic culture in Japan. The first thing that came to my mind was the fashion that is ever-present here. Among the most popular merchandise here are cute characters such as Hello Kitty, which is why I was surprised to find that those from The Nightmare Before Christmas were also branded onto many store items. While each might seem like necessities to counter-culture, the kawaii and kowai (cute, scary) both have a part in this same gothic genre.

At the start was a collection of art focusing on exposing the more macabre side to the meaning of gothic. Using prints taken from 1950s-era magazines, the artist decorated the men and women with elaborate patterns and symbols evocative of death, drawn to look like tattoos (another eerie sight for the Japanese). The original, faded gray feel of the medium made this work well. Later, larger painted scenes of humans and demons with angry or sexual themes also established the morbid feel the rest of the gallery would bring. Each display was more bizarre than the last - examples include human-like portraits being constructed with colorful organs or other imagery cut-and-pasted from medical diagrams, or another set assembled with pieces from dismembered insects such as butterflies.

In spite of the museum's attempt to explain gothic culture, it seemed to instead enjoy shocking the patrons with discomforting imagery. One interesting exhibit was equipped with projectors showing various stages of life, but all in agonizing ways: the baby was left abandoned on a tile floor, crying and trying ot crawl out of its predicament, the middle-aged man was rolling around outside in agony while slowly becoming surrounded by barbed wire, and the older patient had her blood drawn and was painting sunny scenes with it. All in all, it was beyond adequate description, and served to unnerve everyone who was exposed to it.

There were more exhibits, but the only ones describing the Japanese youth and the related subcultures were limited to photography. A collection of (mainly female) people in their rooms, showcasing the various extremes they went to: elaborate, handmade costumes, old-fashioned dolls, Victorian style furnishings, or whatever they happened to take interest in. Those pictured had dedicated most of their living spaces and wardrobe to this alternative style. Some going as far as body augmentation to reach the ideal image they had envisioned for themselves. In fact, the last exhibit was a series of self-portraits following both a mental and physical male-to-female transformation.

While at first things seemed disjointed, after sitting around in the cafe and discussing it, we concluded that the entire purpose was to show how people will form an ideal image for themselves, then work towards realizing it. In a largely homogeneous society such as Japan's, this is one inviting way to break free from the bland. As to why the macabre element appeals, maybe because of its shocking nature, it feels foreign and exciting, drawing in those still possessing a morbid curiosity and driving away those without. The thing I wonder about most when looking at the revealing portraits of Japanese goths, is how long they will continue to live the lifestyle. Surely it is difficult to eschew the norms of society while hoping to earn a living within it.

Either way, I wish them luck in balancing their lives - it certainly makes my day a bit brighter to see fashion that doesn't involve a Burberry scarf or Louis Vuitton bag. And everyone could certainly benefit from exposure to a counter-culture that challenges their everyday assumptions.